Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Intro


This project originally started out as an engine swap. But creep set in and things got larger in scope. Seems like this always happens as you find things that annoy you.



Early last year, I got ahold of a bottle of Sailor Jerry's and attempted to swap out a distributor...


after three hours of beating on the dizzy with a two by four and a hammer, splinters flying everywhere, I wrote this on the wall

Explorer Serpentine Brackets


I wanted a serpentine system, especially since my old 3g alternator squealed with the old V-Belts. Let's face it, v-belts just suck.


I got the brackets from a fresh kill for $25 (I asked the salesman before he saw them) at the local yard. The fresh kill approach seems like the only way to go since the yards typically recycle these right away.






I went with the newer pump not only because it fits the brackets, but the flow pressure is much lower than the early pump. The lower pressure will make for a much more modern feel in the steering when combined with the Randall's rack I installed two years ago. I did need a rather bizarre combination of adaptors to fit the hose. I got them locally at a hose and fitting shop, they cost around $14.


The alternator set me back $36; the pump was about the same.



You'll notice there isn't exactly a lot of clearance for the vacuum advance with the bracket. I'm running 15 degrees initial, so I might get away with it. Otherwise, I'll have to get creative with the angle grinder.

Electric Fuel Pump


Since the Explorer front dress will NOT accept a fuel pump, I have to go electric. The pump's installation instructions noted the pump should be protected, so I built this mount out of 18 guage 36 x 6 weldable sheet metal picked up at the local ACE store. I coated it with POR-15 and POR-15 chassis coat. Once again, the chassis coat didn't spread as well as I would have liked.




I'm using leftover 5/16 - 18 bolts from the Explorer dress. The housing will be insulated from the frame, word is these Holley vertical pumps are loud, through drilled 3/8 holes and rubber exhaust insulators above and below the cars sheet metal.


Tuesday, March 10, 2009

t -5 pedals and linkage


Three shots with booster and master removed and clutch slug removed.

I could have done a better job of removing the slug.


I only painted the front of the engine bay this time around. Need to get this car running.

I used POR-15 and POR-15 chassis coat. The chassis coat doesn't spread as nicely as I'd like. Could be the temperature.



























I also gave the booster a coat of por-15 and POR-15 black engine paint. The engine paint is a nice product, spreads nicely and, provided you resist the urge to touch it for three days, leaves a really nice coat.




















I pulled the pedals and did the Mustang Steve clutch pedal bearing conversion. Since the shafts go for $50 and the bushings constantly wear out, the conversion seemed to be a long term solution to an aggravating early Mustang / Cougar clutch problem. Steve will do the welding for you, I just preferred to get it done locally. I was lucky, my friend Rob was willing to help me out.


I only had to buy the pedal itself, since the hanger assembly is the same for automatic or manual. The difference is, you have to cut the automatic brake pedal to get things to fit.